When I first saw this fly, I wasn't overly impressed. It resembled many of the other Angel Hair/Long Brite patterns I had seen previously. So what convinced me that this fly was special? Nothing. I tied up a few, only because I liked the idea and had the materials. They came out very nicely, and didn't take very long to tie. After tying a dozen to sell, I added a few to my box, intending to test them out over the weekend. On Saturday morning my dad and I headed out off the Pamet in our canoe. As the sun rose we began to see lots of stripers cruising below the surface. We tried several flies, but success didn't really come until I tied on a Mushmouth. I spotted a large cruising school and threw the fly into the middle of them. A few three inch strips and I was on. This technique produced all morning - throwing the fly into large schools and in front of the smaller pods.

The combination of the movement, color, and flash of the angel hair add to this pattern's effectiveness. The angel hair breathes a little and is more active than synthetics such as superhair. There are twenty-some colors you can use to top this fly, but the peacock Long Brite I used had an especially nice tint. Thirdly, and most importantly, the flash of this fly makes it visible and lifelike. The sides flash much the way real baitfish appear. So tie up a few Mushmouths and give it a try next time the fish are picky.

Materials:

• Hook: 1/0 Mustad 34007

• Thread: Mono

• Tail: White Superhair

• Lower Wing: Pearl Long Brite or Angel Hair.

• Upper Wing: Peacock Long Brite

• Eye: 1/4" Raised Epoxy

• Head: Epoxy

Step 1: Start the thread and tie in the superhair tail slightly back from the hook eye. Staggering the ends of the clump will produce a nicer effect, avoiding a "swimming paintbrush" appearance. The superhair helps prevent the fly from fouling excessively.

Step 2: Pull out a clump of pearl Long Brite and tie it in on the bottom of the hook. It should be slightly longer than the superhair. Again, try to stagger the ends, the best way is to tear rather than cut. The excess material should extend past the eye. DO NOT cut the excess away.

Step 3: Pull the excess back towards the hook point and tie it down, forming a bullet-shaped head. Repeat steps 2 and 3 if necessary to create a nice lower wing.

Step 3b: Groom the lower wing, tearing the material if the profile doesn't look right. You want the fattest part of the shape to be right by the hook point.

Step 4: Flip the hook and repeat step 2 with Peacock Long Brite.

Step 5: Repeat step 3, folding back the Peacock Long Brite forming the nice tight head.

Step 6: I often find it is necessary to add an extra bit of Peacock Long Brite to create a bulkier profile. This is important because as fish chew the fly, the Long Brite tears away, and the fly shrinks. Add all the material with the fold-back technique. This keeps the head of the fly tight, and makes the neatest possible head.

Step 7: Tie off the thread. Attach the eyes on either side of the wraps, tight to the eye of the hook. Epoxy between the eyes, on top and bottom. You can also coat the eyes themselves.

Enjoy!

Contact Mike Lettieri