While standing in the clear 44 degree water, I watched four huge rainbow trout biting chunks of flesh off a dead salmon carcass hung up on some branches. No, they weren't gently sipping green caddisflies off the surface or picking out stonefly nymphs from the current. Alaskan rainbow trout inhabiting the streams where the sockeye salmon spawn have an entirely different menu. They thrive on salmon eggs, fry, smolts, and the flesh of dead spawned out salmon. Inevitably, this interesting array of protein packed foods allows these trout to grow bigger than anywhere else in the world despite the short growing season. 

WHERE THE BIG ONES HIDE

Prolific sockeye streams that hold these trout tend to be in southwestern Alaska and are part of the Lake Iliamna drainage. Lake Iliamna is the seventh largest lake in North America and empties into Bristol Bay via the Kvichak River.  Every year close to 25 million of these anadromous sockeye strive to swim up the Kvichak and spawn in the rivers and streams that dump into the lake. Ten million of those fish are expected to escape commercial fisheries and make their way into lake Iliamna where they will then seek out the streams where they were born. The area is serviced by many knowledgeable fishing lodges and guides and is accessible by air taxi float planes for unguided trips.

Sockeye salmon, like all of the five species of Pacific salmon, return to their natal stream to perform the ritual of spawning.  Intense physiological adaptations take place during this trip which include everything from the enlargement of teeth to the fish's color which changes from silver to red; hence, the name red salmon. 

This whole-hearted effort and journey to reproduce drains every last bit of energy from the fish. Naturally, opportunistic fungi and bacteria in the surrounding water take advantage of the creature's weakened state and the sockeye soon die.

FEEDING TIME

Rainbow trout benefit from all aspects of the red salmon spawning run. Salmon eggs, which are laid within the gravel, provide a great source of food. I have witnessed rainbows ramming their heads into the abdomens of female sockeye during egg-laying in order to squeeze out these tasty eggs for a quick bite. Fortunately for the fly fisherman, egg patterns are easy to come by and can be used all season. Commercially tied glo-bugs are available in a wide variety of colors. They are easy to tie on Mustad #9174 hooks with a little glo-bug yarn. It is wise to experiment with colors and try something a little brighter for poor water clarity and less bright in low and or clear water.

Another tremendously successful method is to use small plastic beads and an egg hook. Many fly fishing purists snicker at this method but eventually succumb to the beads; they are probably the best imitation of a real salmon egg. Red, cream, and pink beads are
great colors to use.  Translucent red beads coated with a layer of cream-colored nail polish are particularly effective. The nail polish imitates the thin milky membrane that covers the
eggs.   Although fishing with beads was illegal in fly fishing only waters at one time, it is legal now, but fisherman should always check the current and local rules and regulations. All egg imitations should be fished like a nymph with the appropriate weight so that the egg bounces along the bottom. Double egg flies and cluster egg flies can also be attractive imitations.

Rainbows are not the only fish trying to eat these eggs. Sculpins also forage for sockeye eggs; consequently, we have the egg-sucking leech.  Basically a purple or black wooly bugger with a small tuft of glo-bug yarn by the eye of the hook, an egg sucking leech lures in the fish. Whether the rainbows view this two-course meal literally or not, it has the uncanny ability to produce strikes when all else fails. Usually tied in purple or black, it can be dead drifted, swung in the current, or stripped.

Now comes the real meat! When the lives of the salmon end, nothing goes to waste. Bears and birds are not the only animals to make use of the fish. Pieces from dead and decaying fish often float downstream and the rainbows will dart across an entire riffle or pool to engulf them. This talk of dead fish leads us to the flesh fly. These easy to tie imitations, representing a piece of pinkish or salmon colored flesh, are dead drifted past rainbow trout with amazing results. The white bunny leach is a popular commercially tied fly, but for better action tie your own or use those, often secret, patterns at your lodge of choice. Most of these carnivores are not meticulous about the way their meat is done; yet it is possible to match the flesh.  Fungi covered salmon and flesh that has been marinating in river water for some time takes on a lighter appearance. Snags, eddies, and other places where the dead fish hang up in the current are excellent places to concentrate fishing effort. A late fall flesh fly strategy is to drift flesh flies about an inch or two under the surface past sunken brush piles and snags where the remaining dead carcasses have accumulated. Swing these flies in the current at the end of a drift and then let them sit for a few seconds. This method is productive because strands of skin and connective tissue are often tangled within brushpiles that effectively anchor pieces of flesh in the current. 

Fry flies, or alevins, can be quite effective during the spring. Alevins are young salmon that still have their yolk sac attached and are actively preyed upon by trout.  Alevin flies have silvery bodies and a large set of eyes with some pink or orange yarn tied under the neck to imitate the yolk sac. Salmon become smolts before attempting their journey to the ocean and these can be imitated using several streamers.

Despite many rumors, southwest Alaska's stream ecology is far from devoid of aquatic insect life. Spend five minutes on the stream and up to a pint of blood can be lost due to the abundant and voracious mosquitos. Black and yellow stonefly nymphs are sometimes seen on the underside of rocks. I have witnessed green caddisfly hatches that were so thick at times, visibility was restricted. The important thing to remember is that the rainbows are keyed into the search image of a particular aspect of a sockeye’s life and insects play a subordinate role in their diets. While insect imitations are worthy at the outset of the season, stick to the egg and meat patterns once the sockeyes enter the streams.

Location of trout in the streams will vary with the stage of the sockeye migration and spawning. All streams will experience these stages at different times so it is important to get a general feeling for the relative time-line of events. As Sockeyes first begin to migrate upstream, the trout will frequent deeper pools and riffles. Time will pass and many streams will be full of ripe salmon, sometimes as thick as you have seen in National Geographic. During this period, fish will be spotted in the flats and on the edges of thick groups of salmon. Peek cautiously through quality polarized lens and "the gray among the red" will soon be apparent.

WHEN TO GO
Most Alaskan rainbow trout do not stay in the streams during the winter due to the often total freezing that occurs. Once ice out occurs on the lake, fish may begin to migrate from the lake into the streams. Good fishing begins in early to mid June when rainbows are concentrated at lake outlets and river mouths to feed on sockeye smolts venturing out to sea. Smolt patterns will yield fantastic action through July. As the month progresses, action will slow until August when the salmon begin to establish reds, or spawning beds. Autumn is the season to catch record-breaking fish. Larger rainbows that spend much of the summer in the lake will move into rivers and streams to gorge on eggs and carcasses until the rivers begin to freeze in October.
THINGS TO REMEMBER

Sockeye salmon can be aggressive towards flies while fishing to rainbows and hooking red salmon can be somewhat of a nuisance. Considering the numerous break-offs one can experience, keep plenty of flies on hand, and always use the heaviest tippet that the trout can tolerate. These fish are big and can average 25 inches in many places, so don't hesitate to start with 0X or 1X tippet and only go down in size if the rainbows become picky.  A good lodge should take you to streams that are not heavily fished; thus, smaller sized tippets should not be needed. 

A nine foot six weight is a great all around rod for this area. That size rod will provide for great fights yet have a little extra power for casting in the wind. Spotting fish and sight casting make polarized glasses a must. It is wise to bring a headnet and 100% deet repellent for the bugs. Water temperatures are quite cold and 3-5 millimeter neoprene chest waders, or breathables with thermals and fleece are standard gear. Weather in this region is unpredictable and often severe. Expect air temperatures to range from the mid 40's to the mid 60's and expect to keep your rain jacket on most of the time. Although leaders, lead, strike indicators, and all other extra equipment is usually available at the lodge of your choice, it is wise to bring plenty of extras in case of a shortage or to preserve wallet girth.

This healthy and native population of rainbows is one of the last amazing wonders left in the waters of the world. All fish should be released immediately and proper catch and release techniques should always be used. Particular attention must be paid to safely handling big trout. It is hard to imagine, but not uncommon to hook several eight to ten pound fish in a day. These big fish are not as flexible and able to recuperate as smaller ones after a fight. Internal organs damage quite easily due to their strength and weight so they should be supported carefully with two hands. Never drag them up on the shore or hold them out of the water for more than a quick snapshot.

A DAY OFF
Rainbows are not the only large and numerous fish in the lake Iliamna area. Arctic grayling are often some of the most enthusiastic fish to hit dry flies. Char will hit most of the rainbow flies previously discussed along with bright flashy streamers. Excellent chum and coho salmon fishing can be had in coastal streams in late summer. Big chinooks are available in the region in June and July along with those salmon that make the rainbows grow so big; the sockeye.
GETTING THERE

Most travel guides will place this region of Alaska under "The Bush". Yes, it is remote yet easily accessible. There are two small (very small) convenience stores in Iliamna, and a decent size trading post that has a little of everything. The town is under native rule and dry by law. Remember to bring any alcoholic beverages you may desire. Iliamna is located about 200 miles southwest of Anchorage and about an hour flight.

LODGES

There are many lodges in this area with each offering something a little different. Some lodges lease parts of or entire streams for private and unbelievable fishing. Make sure the lodge has a catch and release only policy on rainbows. A lodge that is able to take one to a variety of streams will have float planes and jet boats for best accessibility to prime spots. Float trips are a fantastic way to fish these streams and may be something to look for. Your lodge should have backup fishing trips in case the weather does not permit flying. 

A listing of local lodges:

Iliaska Lodge 1-907-337-9844

Point Adventure Lodge 1-907-571-1251

Rainbow King Lodge 1-800-458-6539

Rainbow River Lodge 1-907-571-1210

Red Quill Lodge 1-907-571-1215

Suggested Readings:

Alaska Fishing: The Complete Guide by Rene Limeres and Gunnar Pedersen.

Fly Patterns of Alaska by Alaska Flyfishers

How to Fly Fish Alaska by Jim Repine

Flyfishing Alaska by Anthony J. Route

 

 
About The Author
David E. Hallac (aka Dave Sage in the Flyfishsaltwaters.com forums) spent a season guiding for rainbows, grayling, salmon, and pike in Alaska.  He's an estuarine biologist that gets out on the flats of Florida's Indian River Lagoon as much as possible.

[HOME] [Fly Archive] [Flytying Tips] [Past Features] [Photo Gallery
[Friends of FFSW] [Bulletin Board] [CHAT] [Auction] [Links] [Weather & Tides]
[Contact Us]


Copyright ©2000, 2002 Flyfishsaltwaters.com
All Rights Reserved