Wrap thread from the eye past the barb, and back to above the hook point. Take a piece of the Masons mono about 2" long make a loop, and tie on top of the hook. The mono should be just a bit longer than square with the bend of the hook. Dab with head cement and tie down.

Tie in zonker strip. The leather of the zonker strip should extend about 1/8" past the mono loop. Tie in above the hook point using a dab of head cement to lock in place. Note you will use the foam to bring the body of the fly further back on the hook. If you tie the zonker strip in further back than the point of the hook you will not have a smooth transition from body to tail.

Wrap thread forward to the hook eye, and tie in the fly foam strip in this case the strip is 3/8" wide. Dab thin coat of head cement on the thread wrappings, and tie in foam back to above the barb. The foam has a tendency to role over the hook shank. Keep the foam even over the hook. Lash the foam down by wrapping up and down the hook shank a few times.

Remove cotton center from mylar tube and tie in about 2/3 of the way back from the hook eye. Wrap thread back until tubing is even with the last wraps holding the foam down. Wrap thread forward to hook eye. Dab the body lightly with head cement and wrap mylar tubing forward to eye of the hook. Put some decent pressure on the wrappings. Hold body material in place with a couple wraps of thread.

Pull the foam over the body of the fly. Put enough tension on the foam to make it tight. Keeping the foam straight on the top of the hook put 3-4 wraps of thread on the foam right at the eye of the hook. Whip finish cut thread. The foam head of this fly can be cut round or like a trapezoid. Trim front of fly. Put a dab of the paint marker over the thread underneath. Dab with head cement on the throat and thread wrappings on top of the fly. The length of this fly is 2 1/2".