Start by cutting a length of braided mono between 12 and 16 inches long. The length is dependant on the size of the loop we wish to form. If we start with 16 inches we can discard the extra length later. Place the length of braided mono in front of you.
Insert the splicing needle into the core of the braided mono about 1 ½ inches from the right hand end. We shall refer to this precise spot as POINT A. Next, slide the splicing needle up the center of the core about 1 ½ - 2 inches. At this point we push the needle out the braid sidewall.
Insert the left-hand end of the braided mono into the splicing needle loop. Gently pull the splicing needle back out of the core. (This will pull the braided mono into itself forming a loop). Continue to pull the left-hand end of the braid until you get the desired loop size.
Insert the splicing needle into the piece of braided mono we just pulled through, about 1 ½ to 2 inches to the right of POINT A. We refer to this point from now on as POINT B. Slide the splicing needle up the core to a position about 1/16 inch below POINT A and push it out the braid sidewall again.
Insert the 1 ½ - 2 inch tag end into the needle loop and pull it into and back out of the core. If the tag end protrudes from the core, slide the core back a little and trim the tag. When the core is slid forward the tag will be completely inside the core. The "double catch" loop is now complete.
Find point B on the loop. (this should be the starting point where the braid is doubled up). Measure down 6 inches towards to non-loop end and cut the braided mono at this point.
Cut end of flyline to a point and insert into the core by using the inch worm method. Inchworm the flyline all the way down the core of the braid and try and get it into the inner core of the tag about ¼ inch. Smooth out the braid toward the entry point.
At the entry point, tie a 10 turn nail knot using 10 or 12lb mono. Snug up this knot tightly. This is the "trap" nail knot, which prevents the braid from slipping off the flyline. A Whip finish using thread may be substituted. The purpose of this is to prevent the braid from unraveling or from slipping off the flyline. The strength comes from the "Chinese Finger Trap".
Trim the frayed ends of the sleeve as close to the knot as possible. Coat the "trap" Nail Knot with Pliobond to produce a smooth connection which will easily pass through the rod guides. You can also apply a small band of Pliobond at the point where the flyline enters the inner core. This won’t negate the finger trap action but will help keep the end of the fly line from ever poking through the side wall of the braid.
The real strength of this connection is derived from the Chinese finger trap principle, not the Nail Knot. Do not try to enhance the strength of this loop with Super Glue or other Nail Knots. These will not add to the strength of the connection and will in most cases detract from it. You can be assured now that this loop will never pull off.
This method of forming Braided Mono loops was based on a method developed by Dan Blanton.
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