While sparse patterns seem to rule the
day, from classic patterns by Ray Bondorew and Ken Abrames to our very
own Jeff Smith's Buffy progeny, sometimes it pays to have the "half
a chicken" fly. This is especially true early in the season
when the water is still dirty and there are big herring, alewife and in
some places squid close to shore. Even as the water clears, some
locations experience such heavy tidal flows and ripping currents that
the disruption of sand from the bottom will continue to decrease
subsurface visibility while the tide runs--Middle Ground and the mouth
of the Merrimack immediately come to mind. In such locations early
season, it pays to have a big target. This fly was designed for
just those situations. At first glance there is really nothing
special about this fly. If it were to have a name, the
Frankenstein fly would be suiting, as it is merely pieced together from
many different and well-known classic patterns. It is one part deceiver,
one part Ray's fly, one part big-eyed baitfish, and one part grocery fly
(it essentially is a grocery fly, but with a very deliberate color
scheme). You may choose to alter the colors or style in which this
fly is tied to your liking, and like all things, your mileage may vary.
I share this creation with you because it is my favorite early season
pattern, and because I have found over time that this specific color
scheme and composition of materials results in a very effective pattern
in May and early June when there are big herring around. In the
right time and place early season, it will consistently outfish every
other fly in my box.
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Hook size:
4/0-I use Partridge Sea Prince hooks for this fly, they are
strong, heavy and stainless wire with a slightly flared out
point.
Thread: white-flat waxed
nylon or flymaster plus
Tail: 4-6 extra
long white saddle hackles
2-4 extra long yellow saddle hackles
2 extra long olive saddles (optional)
Belly: white
marabou
Winging: gray under
yellow bucktail
Top: olive bucktail
herring back yak hair
peacock herl
Eyes: gillplates
and 3d holographic
Flash: pearl, blue
flashabou, green crinkle flash
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Tying Instructions
- Step One: Tie in the white
saddle hackles as you would on a deceiver, 2-3 on each side, a
little farther toward the eye than normal. Leave in some of
the fluffy webbing on the fly to add some bulk. Fold in 4-6
strand of pearl flashabou.
- Step Two: Tie in 2 wide yellow
saddle hackle feathers above and ahead of the white feathers.
Angle them so they ride above the white feathers and are turned
slightly inward, almost like you were going to make a flat wing.
This angling of the hackle feathers increases the profile of the
rear third of the fly and almost gives it a conical profile like a
real fish. Add two long skinny ones above the wide ones.
The layering blends a color scheme much like on a Ray's Fly, adding
the illusion of more life and movement.
Add the olive if you choose, in the same
fashion.
- Step Three: If there is a large
gap in material between the top of the fly and the bottom at this
point, depending on how much webbing there was on the white feathers
versus those hi-tied above them, add a small amount of marabou to
the bottom of the shank to even out where the tail section tapers
onto the hook shank.
- Step Four: Tie in and wind
forward pearl mylar or body braid from the tail toward the eye and
tie off.
- Step Five: Fold in four strands
of blue flashabou in front of the tail.
- Step Six: Tie in white marabou
on the underside as the belly so that it is about twice the length
of the hook shank.
- Step Seven: Tie gray under
yellow bucktail of similar length to the marabou as winging
material. Do not stack it on top of each other on top of the
hook shank, but rather roll it onto the sides of the shank to leave
more room up top and fill in the side colors.
- Step Eight: Tie in green
crinkleflash the length of the fly, followed by olive bucktail,
herringback yak hair and then peacock herl to the top.
- Step Nine: Tie in green or
silver gill plates, holographic eyes, color the top head of the
thread wrappings and coat with your favorite head cement.
I glue every step of the process with
Loon cement, Goop the eyes, and use Flexament on the final wraps.
I color in the marabou under the gill plates red.
The end result is a big fly with a lot of natural materials that really
breath in the water. The length and bulk will make it really swim in a
current, upright, but with a slight wobble like a slab fly, and some
good side-to-side movement from the extra long saddles. When you
dangle it in a current you can see how much life the materials and color
scheme add to this fly. This fly shines in fast moving current
with a fast sinking line, either on a dead drift, a swing or stripped.
Above is a photo of one of nine bass I took on this fly before it parted
from my line on a HUGE hit. This fish was about the average size
that day (I foolishly ran out of film before taking several of the
biggest fish that day). I did not take a fish below 27" until
I tied on a smaller fly (I carry no less than four of these big boys
now). My companion that day, fishing regular-size deceiver
patterns, did not take a single legal fish despite our same line setups
and numerous double headers. So, in my humble opinion, sometimes size
does matter, and when there is ample big bait around the bigger bass
will not waste their energy on smaller targets.
Good luck!
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